Dhaulagiri: Perbedaan antara revisi

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Baris 1:
{{short description|7th-highest mountain on Earth, located in Nepal}}
{{Rough translation|date=Juni 2022}}
{{Cleanup rewrite|date=Juni 2022}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=May 2019}}
{{About|a mountain|the mountain range|Dhaulagiri (mountain range)|other uses}}
Baris 24 ⟶ 26:
}}[[File:Mt. Dhaulagiri.jpg|thumb|350px|Dhaulagiri dilihat dari Poonhill]]
 
'''Dhaulagiri''' adalah [[Daftar puncak gunung tertinggi di dunia|gunung tertinggi ketujuh]] di dunia dengan ketinggian {{convert|8167|m|ft}} di atas [[permukaan laut]] (dpl), dan juga merupakan [[gunung tertinggi]] dalam batas satu negara (Nepal). Gunung ini pertama kali didaki pada 13 Mei 1960 yang dilakukan oleh para peserta ekspedisi Swiss-Austria-Nepali.
 
[[Annapurna|Annapurna I]] ({{convert|8091|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}) berada sekitar {{convert|34|km|mi|0|abbr=on}} di sebelah timur Dhaulagiri. [[Sungai Gandaki]] mengalir di antara keduanya di [[ngarai Kaligandaki]], yang dikatakan sebagai yang terdalam di dunia.{{citation needed|date=January 2016}} Kota [[Pokhara]] berada di selatan Annapurna, pusat regional yang penting dan pintu gerbang bagi para pendaki dan [[trekking|trekker]] yang mengunjungi kedua daerah tersebut serta tujuan wisata tersendiri.
 
== Toponimi ==
Dhaulagiri (धौलागिरी) bersalah dari [[bahasa Nepal|bahasa Nepal]] dan [[Sansekerta]] yang berarti (dhawala) berarti mempesona, putih, indah<ref>Monier-Williams, op. cit. p. 513</ref> dan (giri) berarti gunung.<ref>Monier-Williams, op. cit. p. 355</ref> Dhaulagiri I juga merupakan titik tertinggi dari lembah sungai Gandaki.
 
==Geografi==
Baris 42 ⟶ 44:
Antara tahun 1950 dan 2006, 2,88% dari 2.016 anggota ekspedisi dan staf yang berada di atas base camp Dhaulagiri I meninggal. Di semua puncak 8.000 meter di Nepal, tingkat kematian adalah 1,63%, mulai dari 0,65% di [[Cho Oyu]] hingga 4,04% di Annapurna I dan 3,05% di [[Manaslu]].<ref name=Salisbury2007/>
 
===PartialGaris timelinewaktu parsial===
* 1950 – Dhaulagiri I reconnoitereddidaki by aoleh [[1950Ekspedisi FrenchAnnapurna AnnapurnaPrancis expedition1950|Frenchekspedisi expeditionPrancis ledyang bydipimpin oleh Maurice Herzog]]. Mereka Theytidak domelihat notrute seeyang alayak feasibledan routeberalih and switch toke Annapurna, wheredi theymana makemereka themelakukan firstpendakian ascentpertama ofdi anpuncak [[eight-thousanderDelapan ribuan|8000 m peak]].<ref>Fallen Giants, pp. 243–245</ref>
* 1953–1958 – FiveLima expeditionsekspedisi attemptmencoba therute northmelalui facewilayah Utara (North Face), oratau "Pear Buttress", route.
* 1959 – AustrianEkspedisi expeditionAustria ledyang bydipimpin oleh [[Fritz Moravec]] makesmelakukan theupaya firstpertama attemptdi onpunggungan thewilayah northeasttimur ridgelaut.<ref name=hj_1959/>
* 1960 – Ekspedisi Swiss-Austrian expeditionAustria leddipimpin byoleh Max Eiselin, successfulpendakian ascentini byberjalan sukses yang diikuti oleh [[Kurt Diemberger]], Peter Diener, Ernst Forrer, Albin Schelbert, Nyima Dorje Sherpa, Nawang Dorje Sherpa onpada 13 MayMei.<ref name=aj_1984/> FirstPendakian HimalayanHimalaya climbpertama supportedyang bydidukung theoleh first prototypepesawat [[Pilatus PC-6|fixed-wing aircraft]], which,hal afterini establishingmenjadikan therekor stilluntuk standingpendaratan recordpesawat forbersayap highesttertinggi, fixeddan wingakhirnya landing,jatuh eventually crashed indi ''HiddenLembah ValleyTersembunyi'' north ofdi theutara mountaingunung duringselama takeofflepas andlandas wasdan abandonedditinggalkan.<ref>Diemberger p. 209</ref>
* 1969 – AmericanTim teamAmerika ledyang bydipimpin oleh Boyd Everett attemptmencoba southeastpunggungan ridgesisi tenggara; seventujuh teamanggota memberstim, includingtermasuk Everett, weretewas killed in andalam [[avalancheLongsor salju|longsoran salju]].<ref name=aaj_1970/>
* 1970 – thependakian second ascentkedua, viamelalui thepunggungan northeasttimur ridgelaut byoleh aekspedisi Japaneseasal expeditionJepang ledyang bydipimpin oleh Tokufu Ohta anddan Shoji Imanari. Dalam ekspedisi tersebut, hanya Tetsuji Kawada anddan Lhakpa Tenzing Sherpa reachyang themencapai summitpuncak.<ref name="aaj_1971"/>
* 1973 – AmericanTim teamAmerika ledyang bydipimpin oleh James D. Morrissey makesmelakukan thependakian thirdketiga ascentmelalui viapunggungan thetimur northeast ridgelaut. SummitTim yang sampai di teampuncak: John Roskelley, Louis Reichardt, anddan Nawang Samden Sherpa.<ref name=aaj_1974/>
* 1975 – JapaneseTim teamJepang ledyang bydipimpin oleh Takashi Amemiya attemptsmencoba southwestpunggungan ridgebarat daya (alsojuga knowndikenal assebagai thepilar south pillarselatan). SixDalam pendakian tersebut areenam killedtewas indalam anlongsoran avalanchesalju, includingtermasuk Norio Suzuki.<ref name=aaj_2000/>
* 1976 – ItalianEkspedisi expeditionItalia makesmelakukan thependakian fourth ascentkeempat.
* 1977 – InternationalTim teaminternasional ledyang bydipimpin oleh [[Reinhold Messner]] attemptsmencoba lewat sisi theselatan south(South faceFace).
* 1978, musim semi: Amemiya kembali dengan ekspedisi yang menempatkan lima anggota berhasil sampai puncak melalui punggungan barat daya—pendakian pertama yang tidak menggunakan punggungan timur laut. Satu anggota tim meninggal selama pendakian.
* 1978, spring: Amemiya returns with an expedition that puts five members on the summit via the southwest ridge—the first ascent not using the northeast ridge. One team member dies during the ascent.
* 1978, autumnmusim gugur – Seiko Tanaka ofdari JapanJepang leadsmemimpin successfulpendakian climbyang ofsukses thedari verypunggungan difficulttenggara southeastyang ridgesangat sulit. FourEmpat aretewas killedselama during the ascentpendakian. FrenchUpaya teamtim attemptsPrancis thepenopang southwestbarat buttressdaya (also calledjuga thedisebut "south buttress"), onlyhanya reachesmencapai ketinggian 7,.200 m.
* 1980 – ASebuah four-mantim teamyang consistingterdiri ofdari Polishempat climbersorang; [[Voytek Kurtyka]] asal [[Polandia]], Ludwik Wiczyczynski, Frenchman René Ghilini, anddari Scotsman[[Prancis]], dan [[Alex MacIntyre]] climbdari the[[Skotlandia]] eastmendaki face,melalui toppingsisi outtimur athingga ketinggian 7,.500 m ondi thepunggungan northeasttimur ridgelaut. AfterSetelah amendirikan bivouacbivak, theymereka descendturun backkembali toke base camp indalam a stormbadai. OneSatu minggu weekkemudian latermereka theymendaki climbgunung themelalui mountainpunggungan viatimur thelaut northeast ridgedan reachingmencapai thepuncak summitpada ontanggal 18 MayMei.<ref name=aaj_1981/>
* 1981 – YugoslavTim teamYugoslavia reachesmencapai ketinggian 7,.950 m aftersetelah puttingmemasang uprute thepertama firstdi routesisi onselatan thegunung trueyang south face of the mountainsebenarnya, on thedi rightsisi sidekanan, connectingmenghubungkan withdengan thepunggungan southeast ridgetenggara. TheyMereka climbmendaki indengan gaya alpine styletetapi butmenderita sufferempat fourhari daysbivak ofterbuka opendan bivouacsenam andhari sixtanpa daysmakanan withoutsebelum food before returningkembali. Hironobu Kamuro ofdari JapanJepang reachesmencapai thepuncak summit alonesendirian, viamelalui therute normal route.
* 1982, 5 MayMeiThreeTiga membersanggota – Philip Cornelissen, Rudi Van Snick, anddan Ang Rita Sherpa – ofdari atim BelgianBelgia-NepaliNepal teammencapai reachpuncak themelalui summitpunggungan viatimur the north-east ridgelaut. A daySehari laterkemudian, fourempat morependaki climberslagi – Ang Jangbu Sherpa, Marnix Lefever, Lut Vivijs, anddan Jan Vanhees – summitjuga alsomencapai puncak. Vivijs becomes the firstmenjadi womanwanita topertama reachyang themencapai summitpuncak.<ref>[https://himalayanpeaks.wordpress.com/dhaulagiri-i/ Dhaulagiri I], himilayanpeaks.wordpress.com, accessed 2Aug2016.</ref>
*1982, 13 DecemberDesemberTwoDua membersanggota (Akio Koizumi anddan Wangchu Shelpa) ofdari thetim JapaneseJepang teamyang leddipimpin byoleh Jun Arima of thedari Academic Alpine Club of [[HokkaidoUniversitas UniversityHokkaido]] reachmencapai the summitpuncak. By theMenurut worldkalender calendardunia, wintermusim beginsdingin dimulai pada 21 DecemberDesember, sojadi thisini wasbukan notmusim winterdingin buttetapi apendakian veryyang sangat terlambat-late-autumn-climbmusim gugur. HoweverNamun, thependakian climbdilakukan wasdi donebawah underizin apendakian wintermusim climbing permitdingin, whichyang dikeluarkan theoleh Nepalipemerintah governmentNepal issuesuntuk forpendakian climbsyang beginningdimulai onpada oratau aftersetelah 1 DecemberDesember.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.mounteverest.net/story/ExWebseriesThemeaningofwinterin8000climbingNov162004.shtml|title=Everest – Mount Everest by climbers, news|website=www.mounteverest.net|access-date=2 April 2018|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160807140644/http://www.mounteverest.net/story/ExWebseriesThemeaningofwinterin8000climbingNov162004.shtml|archive-date=7 August 2016|url-status=dead}}</ref>
* 1984 – ThreeTiga membersanggota ofekspedisi theasal Czechoslovakian expedition[[Cekoslowakia]] (Jan Simon, Karel Jakes, dan Jaromir Stejskal) climbmendaki thewajah westbarat faceke to the summitpuncak. Simon died duringmeninggal thesaat descentturun.
* 1985 - Ekspedisi dari PolishPolandia expeditionyang leddipimpin byoleh Adam Bilczewski setberangkat outuntuk to conquermenaklukkan Dhaulagiri foruntuk thepertama firstkalinya timedi inmusim winterdingin. AfterSetelah seventujuh weeksminggu ofberjuang dramaticsecara struggledramatis againstmelawan hurricane-forceangin windstopan anddan temperaturessuhu belowdi −40cbawah 40c°, [[Andrzej Czok]] anddan [[Jerzy Kukuczka]] successfullyberhasil melakukan madependakian firstmusim winterdingin ascentpertama onpada 21 JanuaryJanuari.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/43/6/dhaulagiri-1984-85/|title=DHAULAGIRI 1984–85 : Himalayan Journal vol.43/6|website=www.himalayanclub.org|access-date=2 April 2018}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=https://himalayanpeaks.wordpress.com/dhaulagiri-i/|title=Dhaulagiri I|date=6 July 2012|website=wordpress.com|access-date=2 April 2018}}</ref>
* 1986 – Ekspedisi sebagian besar Polandia menempatkan rute kedua sisi selatan, di sisi kiri wajah terhubung dengan rute punggungan barat daya. Mereka pergi di atas 7.500 m tetapi tidak mencapai puncak.
* 1986 – A mostly Polish expedition puts up a second south face route, on the left side of the face connecting with the southwest ridge route. They go above 7,500 m but do not reach the summit.
* 1988 - Sovietpendaki mountaineersgunung Soviet Yuri Moiseev anddan Kazbek Valiev, inbekerja cooperationsama withdengan Zoltan Demján ofdari CzechoslovakiaCekoslowakia, succeedberhasil inmendaki climbingpenopang thebarat southwest buttressdaya. ThisPendakian 3,.000-metre ascentmeter ini, withdengan difficultteknik technicalpendakian climbingyang atsulit pada 6,.800–7,.300&nbsp;m, wasdiakui acknowledgedsebagai aspencapaian theterbaik year'stahun bestini achievementdi atKonferensi theKomisi Ekspedisi UIAA Expedition Commission Conference.{{Citation needed|date=December 2008}}
*1993 – RussianTim Rusia-British team puts upInggris thememasang directrute northmenghadap faceutara routelangsung.
*1995 — [[Anatoli Boukreev]], pendakian speed ascentcepat, recordcatatan timewaktu 17 hoursjam 15 minsmenit, base camp toke summitpuncak.<ref>{{cite web |title=Anatoli Boukreev |url=http://mountain.kz/en/Hall-of-Fame/383/anatoli-boukreev |website=Mountaineering and Climbing Federation of Republic of Kazakhstan |publisher=Mountain.kz|access-date=7 April 2019}}</ref>
* 1998 – FrenchPendaki climberPrancis [[Chantal Mauduit]] anddan Sherpa Ang Tshering dietewas whensaat anlongsoran avalanchesalju strikesmenghantam theirtenda tentmereka on thedi Northeast Ridge.<ref name="aaj_1999"/> OnPada tanggal 1 MayMei, thependaki Greekasal climberYunani Nikolaos Papandreou istewas killedjatuh fallingdi in a gorgengarai. OnPada 2 OctoberOktober, the Greek Babis Tsoupras reachesYunani themencapai summitpuncak buttetapi doestidak not returnkembali. The bodies of theMayat Greekpara climberspendaki wereYunani nottidak foundditemukan.<ref>[[:el:Νταουλαγκίρι|Νταουλαγκίρι (Dhaulagiri). Article in Greek Wikipedia in Greek language.]]</ref><ref>[http://www.tourism.gov.np/uploaded/pdf/mountaineering-in-nepal-2010.pdf Ministry of Tourism & Aviation, Gov. of Nepal (2010) ''Mountaineering in Nepal, Facts & Figures'', List of summiteers of Mt. Dhaulagiri, No. 298] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110826002237/http://www.tourism.gov.np/uploaded/pdf/mountaineering-in-nepal-2010.pdf |date=26 August 2011 }}</ref>
* 1999 – OnPada tanggal 24 OctoberOktober, Britishpendaki climberInggris [[Ginette Harrison]] diesmeninggal indalam anlongsoran avalanchesalju ondi Dhaulagiri.<ref name=Guardian1999/> DaysBeberapa later,hari Sloveniankemudian, [[Tomaž Humar]] climbsorang theSlovenia southmendaki facewajah soloselatan butsendirian doestetapi nottidak reachmencapai the summitpuncak. HisPendakiannya ascentberakhir endedpada atketinggian 7,.300 m duekarena tertimbun tobatu akarang sepanjang 300 m band of rotten rock. Humar traverses tomelintasi thepunggungan dangeroustenggara southeastyang ridgeberbahaya, re-entersmasuk thekembali faceke brieflymuka sebentar, anddan exitskeluar atpada 8000 m foruntuk amenuruni descentpunggungan ontimur thelaut. northeastWajah ridge.selatan Dhaulagiri's southmasih facebelum is still unclimbeddidaki, making itmenjadikannya onesalah ofsatu thetantangan greatestterbesar remainingyang challengestersisa indalam alpinismalpinisme.
 
[[Kategori:Pegunungan di Provinsi Gandaki]]
 
==Referensi==
* {{citation
| last = Colebrooke | first = H.T.
| title = On the height of the Himalaya mountains
| work = [[Annals of Philosophy]]
| editor-last = Thomson | editor-first = Thomas | editor-link = Thomas Thomson (chemist)
| volume = XI | date = January 1818
| number = LXI | pages = 47–52
| url = https://www.biodiversitylibrary.org/item/53908#page/61/mode/1up
| access-date = 21 April 2015 }}
* {{cite book
| author = Diemberger, Kurt | author-link = Kurt Diemberger | year = 1999
| title = The Kurt Diemberger Omnibus (Summits and Secrets)
| url = https://archive.org/details/kurtdiembergerom0000kurt | publisher = The Mountaineers | location = Seattle, WA, USA
| isbn = 0-89886-606-5
}}
* {{Cite book
| last = Monier-Williams | first = Monier
| title = A Sanskrit-English Dictionary
| publisher = Oxford University Press
| orig-year = 1899 | year = 1964
| url = http://www.sanskrit-lexicon.uni-koeln.de/scans/MWScan/index.php?sfx=pdf | access-date = 20 April 2011}}
* {{cite book
| first = Jill | last = Neate
| title = High Asia: An Illustrated History of the 7,000 Metre Peaks
| publisher = Mountaineers Books | year = 990
| isbn = 0-89886-238-8
}}
* {{cite book
| last = Waller | first=Derek John
| title= The Pundits: British Exploration of Tibet &amp; Central Asia
| publisher=University Press of Kentucky | location=Lexington, KY, USA
| year=2004
| isbn=0-8131-9100-9
| url = http://www.kentuckypress.com/live/title_detail.php?titleid=1613 | access-date = 4 January 2014}}
* {{cite book | author1 = Isserman, Maurice | author2 = Weaver, Stewart
| title = Fallen Giants: A History of Himalayan Mountaineering from the Age of Empire to the Age of Extremes
| publisher = Yale University Press | year = 2010
| isbn = 978-0300164206
| url = https://books.google.com/books?id=JgEKGGYEpZIC | access-date = 19 October 2014}}
 
;Notes
{{Reflist|colwidth=30em|refs=
<ref name=8000ers>
{{cite web|url=http://www.8000ers.com/cms/en/download.html?func=startdown&id=168
| title=High Asia – All mountains and main peaks above 6750 m|publisher=8000ers.com|access-date=28 August 2014}}</ref>
<ref name=aaj_1970>
{{cite journal | journal = American Alpine Journal | publisher=American Alpine Club
| title = American Dhaulagiri Expedition—1969 | year = 1970 | volume = 17 | issue = 1 | page = 19
| url = http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197001900/American-Dhaulagiri-Expedition1969
| access-date = 28 October 2016}}</ref>
<ref name="aaj_1971">
{{cite journal | journal = American Alpine Journal | publisher=American Alpine Club
| title = Asia, Nepal, Dhaulagiri, Second Ascent | year = 1971 | page = 438
| url = http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197143802/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-Second-Ascent
| access-date = 18 May 2019}}</ref>
<ref name=aaj_1974>
{{cite journal | journal = American Alpine Journal | publisher=American Alpine Club
| title = Dhaulagiri 1973 | author = Reichardt, Louis F.
| year = 1974 | volume = 19 | issue = 1 | page = 1
| url = http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197400100/Dhaulagiri-1973
| access-date = 28 October 2016}}</ref>
<ref name=aaj_1981>
{{cite journal
| author = MacIntyre, Alex
| title = Dhaulagiri's East Face
| url = http://c498469.r69.cf2.rackcdn.com/1981/45_macintyre_dhaulagiri_aaj1981.pdf
| journal = American Alpine Journal
| year = 1981 | pages = 45–50}}</ref>
<ref name="aaj_1999">
{{cite journal | journal = American Alpine Journal | publisher=American Alpine Club
| title = Dhaulagiri I, Attempt and Tragedy | author = Hawley, Elizabeth
| year = 1999 | volume = 41 | pages = 366–368
| url = http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199936602/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-I-Attempt-and-Tragedy
| access-date = 18 May 2019}}</ref>
<ref name=aaj_2000>
{{cite journal | journal = American Alpine Journal | publisher=American Alpine Club
| title = The South Face of Dhaulagiri | author = Cicogna, Antonella
| year = 2000 | volume = 42 | issue = 74 | page = 13
| url = http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200001300/The-South-Face-of-Dhaulagiri
| access-date = 28 October 2016}}</ref>
<ref name=aj_1984>
{{Cite journal
| author = Dangar, D.F.O
| title = A Record of the First Ascents of the Fifty Highest Mountains
| journal = Alpine Journal | publisher = Alpine Club
| url = http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1984_files/AJ%201984%20184-187%20Dangar%20Ascents.pdf
| year = 1984 | volume = 89 | pages = 184–7
| access-date = 24 April 2011}}</ref>
<ref name=Guardian1999>
{{cite news | url = https://www.theguardian.com/news/1999/oct/28/guardianobituaries1
| title = Ginette Harrison | newspaper = The Guardian
| date = 28 October 1999 | access-date = 28 October 2016}}</ref>
<ref name=hj_1959>
{{Cite journal | journal = Himalayan Journal
| title = Dhaul agiri, 1959
| year = 1959 | volume = 22
| publisher = Himalayan Club | location = New Delhi
| url = https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/22/5/dhaul-agiri-1959/
| access-date = 19 December 2020 }}</ref>
<ref name=indiamike>
{{cite web
| title = Valmiki National Park, Bihar
| publisher = indiamike.com
| url = http://www.indiamike.com/india/indian-wildlife-and-national-parks-f74/valmiki-national-park-bihar-t74555/
| access-date = 21 April 2011}}</ref>
<ref name=peakbagger>
{{cite peakbagger | pid = 10620 | title = Dhaulāgiri, Nepal
| author = Greg Slayden | access-date = 26 April 2011}}</ref>
<ref name=Salisbury2007>
{{cite web
| author1 = Salisbury, Richard | author2 = Hawley, Elizabeth
| date = September 2007
| title = The Himalaya by the Numbers, a statistical analysis of mountaineering in the Nepal Himalaya
| url = http://www.himalayandatabase.com/downloads/HimalayaByNbrs.pdf
| access-date = 25 April 2011
}}</ref>
}}
 
==Sumber==
* ''American Alpine Journal'', 1974, 1976, 1977, 1979, 1986, 1987, 1994, 1999, 2000.
* Eiselin, Max, ''The Ascent of Dhaulagiri'', OUP, 1961
* {{cite book|author=Ohmori, Koichiro | title = Over the Himalaya | publisher = Cloudcap/The Mountaineers | year = 1994 }}
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20140622192212/http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/hi/index.htm Himalayan Index]
 
==Pranala luar==
{{Commons category|Dhaulagiri}}
* [https://www.friendshipworldtrek.com/package/mt-dhaulagiri-expedition/ Dhaulagiri Expedition ]
* [http://www.himalaya-info.org/Map%20dhaulagiri_himal.htm Dhaulagiri on Himalaya-Info.org (German)]
* {{cite peakware|id=63|name=Dhaulagiri}}
* [http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/150777/dhaulagiri.html Dhaulagiri on summitpost.org] (Detailed description of trekking and of first ascent)
* [http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/hi/ Himalayan Index]
* {{id}} [http://www.everest.id/ Everest News]
{{Authority control}}{{Delapan ribuan}}
 
[[Kategori:Eight-thousanders of the Himalayas]]
[[Kategori:Mountains of the Gandaki Province]]